Tales from the Big Island

Looking South to North Mamalahoa Hwy, Kohala

Well, just got a great write up from Brandon Treloar (who can be found on Instagram as @shorebroke) on the Big Island of Hawaii. He has spent some time with Phileas and it sounds like they had a blast. Brandon has pulled out all the stops to send us the sights from his beautiful bit of the world. Unfortunately, the footage he got will never be seen with the Ocean claiming his GoPro. 


Not to be deterred (what with being of Cornish descent) Brandon has sent plenty to satisfy our curiosity.

Phileas at Pine Trees, Kailua-Kona

"Late one Friday afternoon in Kailua-Kona, on the Big Island of Hawaii. I received a call from work. "There's a package that arrived for you. It's on your desk." I knew what it was. Excited. I swung by the office after hours to pick it up. There it was. Sitting in all its glory. A beat up, reused box delivered by the trusty United States Postal Service. I couldn't wait. I opened up the box and found her. Phileas. After what must have been close to two years of following her travels around the globe. Hoping I'd have the chance to casually meet her. Phileas decided to make the pilgrimage to the Big Island and I welcomed her with open arms. After all.  She was mine. At least for one hot minute. Once I got home. I laid her down on the bed. With roving eyes I gazed at every detail. Noticing where others let there marks. So many had before me. Taking pictures as if she was one of my French girls.

Palms at Magic Sands (La'aloa), Kailua-Kona

The next day we had a little 5-7 foot West swell starting to pulse at Pine Trees. A mellow reef break. We loaded up and headed on down. Sitting in the shade I cracked a chance cold one and started to blow her up. Thinking to myself. 'Ugh! How many dudes have had their mouth on her valve?' The beer quickly washed away the thought. I sat for a few looking at the break. The left wasn't hooking up. The right had a crowd. Donning my fins and slathering on sunscreen, then I'm off. I jump into the water and let her cool. I recheck the inflation and adjust. Paddling her out like a trophy wife, I make it t the line up. Some faces were out that day. Most stoked to see a mat, what a lot grew up riding, out in the water.

Phileas Hanging Around at Pine Trees, Kailua-Kona

A set starts to show. I paddle out a bit further but stay a bit on the shoulder. After all it was our first time together. We had to ease into our rhythm. The left shuts down and the right connects. Arms stretched out across her deck we make the drop. Pulling myself on top we start our bottom turn. A little pressure on the corner. Lift up the outside pontoon and we're off. Racing down the line. Trimming up and down the wave. A section breaks in front of us. We skirt around it then another to the same affect. We make it all the way inside. I was smiling from ear to ear. 'What a wave!' I sat deeper and deeper with each wave trying her limits. She rode like a champ. Pure speed and control. Surprising the crowd with how fast and maneuverable a bag of air can be.

Brandon awaiting Phileas' arrival.

Phileas at Magic Sands (La'aloa), Kailua-Kona

The afternoon brought a drop in the tide and cleaned up the wind. As I paddled back out for our second session. I saw the left come through. A great little boxes wave. It was on! The local body boarders givingme stink eye, we waited. A set rolled through and seemed to clean everyone out. Except for myself and one boogie. One stacks up on the horizon. I'm deep. Deeper than the boogie. We're both paddling for the wave. As it starts to pitch, a buddy of the boogie shouts, "let him go!"  Perhaps testing me to see what the outcome would be. He backs off and it's myself, Phileas, and the wave. A steep drop right into the pocket. Shift my weight and Phileas engages. We scream down the line , riding the wave until just before it closes out over some dry reef. The paddle back out the boogies came and talked story. They seemed to be amazed that the drop was made and that the wave was ridden. Some youngsters asked plenty questions about riding mats. All showed a new found stoke for a different type of surf craft.

Green Sand Beach, South Point

The next day the swell dropped off and the wind was intense. This was followed by a week long flat spell and a trip out to Newport Beach, California. Phileas stayed in Hawaii. Once I got back we made a trip down to Lyman's. A left point break that breaks off a reef. A super fun wave that has a fun drop and plenty of room for long arching turns. It was smaller than hoped. Only 2-3 feet but still some fun waves with no crowd. We caught wave after wave for about and hour and a half before the first person paddled out. Soon after it was a mess. Board surfers everywhere. It was time to go. We loaded and went home.

Rainbow Falls, Hilo

Stream near Akaka Falls, Hamakua Coast

Stream near Akaka Falls

Though Phileas was out on Big Island for three weeks, we were only able to get her in the water twice. Plenty of waves were had. Copious smiles from riding her, telling the story of her journey while in the water, and thinking about how I am a part of a great group of dudes who all like to ride a bag of air. I wasn't her first. Nor well I be her last.

Graeme is a master of his craft. His construction and design is second to none."

Thanks a lot to Brandon for taking care of Phileas and showing her around. He sent stacks more photo's which I've put in a gallery below. Hover on shots to bring up a description.  As for Phileas, she's continuing her tour of the Sandwich Islands.

On she goes.