So, Phileas has made her way back to the US and is currently lodging with one of Rincon's truly nice guys, Matt Herman. Matt managed to snag some tiny but really fun little peelers down the beach from Rincon.
Phileas surfed well, it was fast and loose, even at high inflation levels. We were lucky enough to get steeply angled SSE swell from Hurricane Delores, which was no Marie. It was, is, extremely humid for out here. One day this week it was 76% and 84 degrees F. Its strange to see rain and electrical storms in Santa Barbara, or CA. The ocean was glassy, no clear as glass. I saw bizarrely blue ocean colors all week on Instagram, as far north as Santa Cruz. I surfed this morning on the back side of Rincon on Phileas, solo for a while.
I was at the back side of Pitus in these photos. I felt like a kid on the day those were taken, weaving through bathers and getting called into waves by tourists and locals, who were both tripping out on the weather, water, and the mat surfing skills of yours truly. ;)
I'm just pleased to see Phileas getting back to what she's best at and staying clear of her vices. Although the pram thing... I don't even want to ask!
Thanks to Sylvia Orantes for taking the photos.