Glory Goes Deep...

Sounds like someone scored....


On Sunday, while the northern California surfing world formed a huge circle in the waters off Pleasure Point to honor the life of Jack O'Neil...I paddled out at Steamer Lane on Glory. No disrespect to Jack as he was a hugely honorable man and I have been an advocate of his products for over 40 years, but the opportunity for a perfect wave with minimal crowd conditions was too tempting (I think Jack would understand and approve, as he was larger than life on the outside but a true waterman on the inside).

To make things neat and tidy here is the deal...started off inside at Middles...caught a handful of mid-size (2-4' face) waves and got some nice long rides. Then I graduated myself out to the main break in front of the looming dark cliffside where the waves were considerably larger with 6' faces. I waited in the line up as the handful of board surfers got waves...then eased towards the deeper section behind them. Soon enough I caught a set wave, carved a nice arching bottom turn, pulled into a deep barrel section, came out as the wave rounded the point and was immediately hopped by more than 3 longboarders who had no idea I was there.

I tucked underneath the white water and returned to the line up to await the next set which came soon enough. I caught another wave with equal result except for the hoppers part as I yelled my fool head off from inside the barrel which caused them to hesitate...100 yards later I kicked out over the dwindling wave face and returned to the line up once again. As I passed through the cluster of guys who were hanging on the inside all of them commented on my ride positively.

From that point onI didn't have to say a word...just kick like hell and commit! All in all, I caught over a dozen set waves in short order and burnt my matches...legs like noodles, I caught one last wave and let it carry me to within 30 feet of the egress rock pile at the bottom of the cliff. I exited almost gracefully except for one bobble while removing my fins, walked up the steps, and found my way home.

Alan Whitsett Surfmat

Thank you for your part in this photos this I wanted to stay low key. I will go back Thursday to a much larger south swell and will shoot some video.

Alan Whitsett"

Word from Scandinavia

Word has come in from Sweden's minister of matting, Tim Ciasto.  Tim has a couple of Rubber Buckies, both in sultry black on black. You can read all about them HERE.

Anyway, having a lot of work on as a film maker, plus living in a land with inconsistent waves, it's not always easy to get quality surf in but it sounds like the Norse Gods have been smiling on Tim judging by his recent email:


Got incredibly busy the last week but guess what...

Today I went surfing. It almost didn't happen because when I tried to put my DaFin Big Boo's on over my winter booties I ripped the strap of one fin... damn :( need a replacement now...

I really thought that was it, but I discovered that I had backup in my car (my V7's and 5mm dive socks). 

The wind was not too extreme so I decided to take "Geburtstag Bonus"...

You said it will take probably a couple of waves to get used to it... well ... what can I say...

My first 3 waves where pure magic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

On the first one I pulled into a steep section an had the brief feeling that I side-slipped but then the mat locked in and accelerated rapidly... so much fun. It was at my favorite spot but those waves today where among the best I ever surfed in Sweden. 

Thank you so much for this incredible gift. I still have a big smile on my face :)

Well, now I have a big smile on my face! Great to hear. Tim is planning on another visit to the UK soon which the UK Mat Surfers crowd are very pleased to hear. His last visit was great fun:

I'm looking forward to hearing about more adventures from Tim and his girls. It warms the cockles to know that I've played a small part in people's stoke. 



Jamie McClellan - Feedback

For those unaware, Jamie McClellan is a mat surfer of some note from North Carolina on the US East Coast. (Find out more about Jamie HERE). 

Anyway, Jamie has ridden a few of my mats (see the banner pic at the top of this blog!) and recently scored a G-Mat Bullet named "Lucky" which is the orange mat featured on the home page of this site. After a really long lay off due to work commitments, Jamie has finally managed to get a session in on Lucky.

Jamie McClellan riding G-Mat 13.

Photo by Dan Murphy

Jamie offered some brief feedback:

"Lucky did everything I asked of her and I didn't have to think about it which is a very good first impression. Felt great!"

Action without thought... Music to a mat builder's ears.